My cheery bivy above the Second Tower at about 21,000 feet (6400 m) on the lee side of the SW Ridge of Ama Dablam. The gargoyled ridge drops away several thousand feet to the glaciers below. At this point, the ridge is so narrow that I accidently chopped a hole through to the other side while hacking my ledge in the ice — a powerful wind howled past my head all night and ice pellets rained down from above. The other three climbers were crammed into a Bibler I-tent (tiny two-person tent) that didn't quite fit the ledge. The next day would be our summit bid.

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